Wednesday, 13 August 2014

On the trail of Wilfred Owen - PART 1 - Shrewsbury

Regular readers will already be aware of my massive admiration and love for the amazing poet Wilfred Owen. His poetry is cleverly written and genuinely beautiful, despite the subject matter and his honesty about his experiences has inspired me more than I could possibly express in words.

On the Trail of the Poets of the Great War - Wilfred Owen by Helen McPhail and Philip Grant is a fantastic book, which I bought back in 2010. I was on the trip to Ypres and the Somme, in which I also drove up to Ors, where Wilfred is buried (see my post about that trip). It has proven invaluable in locating some of the places which were important in his life. I haven't yet located all of them yet but I hope to get round all of them eventually. 
Last August, my friends Anna and Ralph married at Craig Y Nos Castle in South Wales. It was a beautiful wedding in a really interesting Victorian gothic setting, all watched over by 19th Century opera singer and former owner of the castle: Adelina Patti.


Once the celebrations were over, Mike and I decided that it was the perfect opportunity, being in the West Country, to find some of the places where Wilfred and the Owen family had lived. One hastily booked Travelodge later, we were off to Shrewsbury in my old 1991 Fiesta.

Shrewsbury Abbey
Shrewsbury really took us by surprise. A beautiful old town, it sits in a meander of the River Severn in Shropshire. It is full of amazing tudor buildings and balances its history with the modern world really well. We both fell in love with this little town immediately. Everywhere we walked, I couldn't help but imagine that Wilfred had walked the same paths, and looked at the same sights. It felt really special.

The first place we visited was the ancient abbey. An imposing structure of red sandstone, it stands in an unwalled graveyard, which almost feels like a park.

Symmetry
At the far end of the graveyard is 'Symmetry', a granite monument in remembrance of Wilfred Owen. It was designed by Paul de Monchaux in 1993.
On one side, is a quotation from Owen's poem 'Strange Meeting' and the structure is designed to echo the tunnel, which is referred to in the poem. It is a beautiful monument.






Within the Abbey is a memorial to the men of Shrewsbury, who gave their lives in the Great War. Wilfred's name is marked by a poppy.

The Abbey itself is beautiful and its staff were very friendly to us. 














Not far from the Abbey, in the Monkmoor area of the town, are the two houses in which Wilfred and the Owen family lived in, after moving from Birkenhead in 1907.


1 Cleveland Place (Now in Underdale Road)




 The first house – 1 Cleveland Place – is no longer known by that address, having become part of Underdale Road but, under a thick layer of decaying white paint, the former address is still just visible, carved into the pillars at the end of the path. 

The house itself, mid terraced and three stories tall, is fairly imposing but pleasing on the eye. 

The Owen Family lived here from 1907 until 1910.








Mahim


Mahim – the last place Wilfred's parents lived before he died, is a beautiful house – semi detached with a large bay window and attic room. It is located at number 69 Monkmoor Road.

As I stood there, I looked up at the dorma window jutting from the roof and I could just imagine dear Wilfred sitting at that window, head stooped towards his desk, writing poetry and letters, studying his books and honing his craft. 







Mahim bears a plaque in recognition of the fact that Wilfred lived there from 1910-1918.

 
I must say that I didn't track these places down unaided. My guide book was fantastic, providing detailed and accurate directions, which made it really easy to find what I was looking for. 

Other places I located, using the guide were Wilfred Owen Close, Shrewsbury Station, where Tom Owen (Wilfred's father) worked and also the former site of Shrewsbury technical school, where Wilfred attended school. 


Shrewsbury Station

Former site of Shrewsbury Technical School



St Julian's Church



Finally, we found St Julian's Church, where Wilfred's mother was an active member of the congregation. The church contains a roll of honour for the war dead of the congregation, where Wilfred is named.


 











I loved discovering Shrewsbury and finding the various locations which featured in Wilfred's life and the monuments erected in his memory. I would go back in a heartbeat.









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